I bought this pattern in the Named advent calendar sale. I’ve had it in my sights for a while because although I love the Archer shirt pattern, the interesting cross-over collar, button placket and French cuffs mean that this shirt is just a little more dressy. And sometimes I want something a little bit smarter.
This was actually the first Named pattern I’ve sewn (although I’ve had a couple of others in my stash for a while) and I could only find a few versions of it on sewing blogs, which is usually where I first look when I’m trying to work out whether a pattern is well-drafted and easy to follow.
I used some olive-green fabric I bought at the Strasbourg Stoffspektakel back last autumn. I’m no expert but it feels like cotton, and one side is juuuust slightly fluffy. I suppose if I had to name it I’d say it’s brushed cotton. It’s a bit heavier than the chambray I used for my first Archer, but in the Swiss winter that’s no great problem! It also leaked colour when I pre-washed it with some white fabric (which thankfully returned to white with a little care and Javell water) so I’ll have to remember not to throw it in with my regular wash.
I was far too lazy to make a muslin, so I just made a straight size 10. Named is the only indie pattern company that I’ve made from where I fit all the measurements for a size without having to grade between sizes. I did shorten the sleeves by 1 1/2″ going on my experience with the Archer shirt and a Sewaholic Oakridge muslin. It was probably slightly too much – I think I’ll reduce it to 1″ next time.
I used some fabric (which I believe is Peruvian) that I got from a sample pack of fabric some years ago for the inside of the collar stand. I wondered about using it for the inside of the button stands as well, and possibly the sleeve binding too, but I’m glad I ended up sticking to just the collar stand. Less is more and all that.
The top button on the placket and the collar stand buttonhole are pretty close together. I like the effect with just the placket buttons done up and my pretty fabric peeking out:
The overlapping collar is also fun although I’m less likely to wear it like that. I think it looks almost military, particularly with the colour:
This was also my first attempt at a tower placket, and although I’ve been reading about them for a while on various blogs and sewing sites and been a bit scared by them, it wasn’t hard at all. I think I’ll be substituting the continuous bound placket on the Archer for these from now on.
The cuffs are also finished with buttonholes on both sides and cuff links made from
Actually I had a helluva job trying to find 18 matching small green buttons at the brocki, and ended up using three different kinds: the seven down the front on the button placket:
Three of a similar colour but slightly bigger which went on the collar stand and the sleeve plackets:
and some of my favourite metal ones that have been in my button tin for a while waiting for a project that will show them off nicely. I think this one does.