In all the kerfuffle of arranging moving (which isn’t even going to happen for another good month) I had a bit of a break from the sewing machine. But I went back to it with what I feel is a bit of a flourish (for me, anyway) this week as I tackled sewing an actual jacket, with lining and welt pockets (a first for both).
The pattern is the Rigel Bomber jacket from Papercut patterns which I bought in the Black Friday sale last year (oops). It’s the first time I’ve sewn anything from Papercut, and besides going all gooey about the pretty, recycled packaging (there’s plenty of that on other sewing blogs) I found the experience very nice. The instructions aren’t as hand-holdy as some companies I’ve sewn from (although much more than some others) and since I wanted to line the jacket (which isn’t included in the instructions) my method diverted from that given at a few points.
After consulting my poor mother and sister over several days, I narrowed my choice of fabric from 5 or so pieces to some cotton chambray that I bought some time ago with a pattern of what looks like space invaders. I love it. I had to go out specially to buy some plain navy viscose to line it – I don’t often buy
boring plain fabric on impulse so I didn’t have anything suitable in my fabric stash. I’d already bought grey ribbing and a zip in readiness for the jacket. I used some leftover orange linen from my Chataigne shorts for the pocket bags:
I also used it to back a label that I made up using some little labels I ordered before Easter. It’s not very square, but this isn’t my day job!
I used this method to draft lining pieces for the jacket – it’s basically sleeve, back and front pieces minus the width of the facing, plus seam allowance, plus an extra 1/2″ on the bottom. Then I used Lladybird’s method for attaching the lining; (almost) without any hand-sewing and with all seams enclosed between the lining and the shell (a bagged lining.) I had a bit of a conundrum attaching the sleeve lining, which I had to unpick and re-do, but it’s explained well here (there’s a link to it in Lladybird’s post too)
I shortened the neck ribbing by 1″ to try and stop it from standing away from my neck, but as you can see here it still does a little bit.
I’m reasonably happy with my pattern matching overall, although it’s not completely perfect across the zip.